When Good Camera Cards Go Bad-Protecting our Images from Corruption

WSmiling little girlhen Good Camera Cards Go Bad – Protecting Your Images from Corruption  Camera cards are trusted to hold and protect our precious photos but, in order to do this well, we need to do a few things to make sure they can do their job.

Impatience Incorporates Errors: Your digital camera media can be corrupted if the camera is turned off before the image is finished being written to the card. A similar error can occur is a camera card is removed from the camera or from a computer’s media drive before the data has finished writing. Make sure that the ‘read’ light is no longer flashing on your media drive and select the ‘Safely Eject Media’ option on your toolbar. You may then safely eject the card when prompted.

Dead Batteries Can Corrupt: If your digital camera ‘dies’ due to exhausted battery power, you can corrupt your digital camera card and possibly damage the card and the images stored on it. If the flashing red light is signaling that you are about to lose battery power, play it safe and power down. It’s better to protect the images you already have rather than continuing to push for one more shot, which could cost you everything on the card.

Keep Them Covered: It’s amazing how poorly we treat our digital media sometimes. We keep cards in our jacket or pants pockets, in our handbags, briefcases or in drawers, leaving them to be jostled and in contact with dust and other contaminants. It doesn’t take but a second to store your card soundly. Consider our selection of inexpensive quality card case options including anti-static and waterproof designs

Advertisements

Quick Tips on Fireworks

1064142_592884940752061_1639679166_oFirst and foremost, you need to find a good location and get a feel for the composition you want to capture. Include a beautiful skyline in your images or just zoom in so the sky is your main background. In addition, find a safe, secure place to mount your camera. Use a tripod or any of our Fat Gecko camera mounts to stabilize your camera to anything nearby. Attach a Fat Gecko Vise to a nearby railing or a Strap Mount to a pole. Timing is also important, as you will find that the best images to take are at the beginning of the show, before the sky fills up with smoke.

Once you find your location, attach your camera to your support. Set the camera lens to “Manual Focus” and adjust it to “Infinite Focus”. Have your Camera Mode set to “M” and adjust the Shutter Speed to be between 1 and 20 seconds. In addition, set the Aperture to around f/11 and the ISO to 200. A wider aperture makes for bigger, brighter streaks, but can be blown out, while smaller apertures make for tight and colorful bursts. Use your cable release to fire the camera immediately following the rocket’s launch. You can shoot in either JPEG or RAW, but RAW files will let you better adjust the exposure afterwards in software to get your ideal image. If you are using a Point and Shoot camera, see if there is a “Fireworks Scene” mode.

You can also experiment using the “Bulb” setting, for those DLSRs that include it. If you cannot find the “Bulb” setting in your Mode Dial, set your camera to “Manual Mode” (M) and slow the shutter speed all the way down to make the Bulb (B) appear; this forces the shutter to remain open for as long as you leave the shutter release open. Set your Aperture between f/8 and f/16 and your ISO at around 200. If you want to brighten your pictures, raise the ISO to 400 or so, or adjust the f/stop to change the look of the firework trails. Open the shutter when you hear the rockets fire and close it when the burst is over.

If you want to capture multiple “bursts” in a single frame, a fun trick is to leave the shutter open for a long period of time and control the exposure manually with a HAT. Lock the shutter open and keep the lens covered with a hat. When you see the rocket launch, remove the hat until the burst is complete; then re-cover with the hat. You can repeat this multiple times and then use the cable release to close the shutter and end the exposure. This technique, along with all longer shutter speed techniques, is best when there is very minimal ambient light. If you are near street lights, or if there are other bright objects in your frame, your photos may become too blown out during these long exposures.

Most importantly, have fun and enjoy the show! Take a few test shots to nail down the settings & technique you want to use, then sit back and enjoy the show, while you control your camera remotely. You know the technique, now try it for yourself.

What You Will Need:

  • A Camera That Allows You to Shoot in “Manual (M)” or “Bulb (B)”
  • A Fat Gecko Mount or Tripod to Stabilize Your Shot
  • A Cable Release / Wireless Remote to Trigger Your Camera
    (If You Do Not Have One, Use the Self Timer Function)
  • Plenty of Memory Cards and Charged Batteries

1074757_592884780752077_1709764145_o